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inspiring social & environmental excellence in high-end brands

Dear Friends,

You will find below my critical thoughts about two words that have become way too common... Your comments and feeback will be more than appreciated:

"Luxury": Who is not sick of hearing the word luxury over and over again, from hamburgers to mass brands?

Everytime you read the word "luxury" (be it in a brand name, brand motto, advertising visual, or in-store like in a famous London dpt store), be sure that the brand tries to prove too much. Real luxury does not have to scream its name. In addition, luxury is by definition exclusive, personal, emotional, irrational and subjective. So who is allowed to state what is officially luxurious? Well, brands who want to fool customers use the word a lot... with a view to giving a "bling bling" touch to their empty marketing and average products/services. Mind the gap.

"Green": The same is already happening with the word "green".

It used to be perceived as a hippie concept, which has reached such a fame nowadays that it has become another buzz word, used by anyone for any purpose. Kitsch you said? Well, I would say that the word is going against the genuine and sincere interests of the actual eco-brands and eco-users... You find the word used for products that are 0% natural (even less organic), for charity campaigns (giving a % of the products sales to charity should not allow to call a product "green"), for fair trade products (treating fairly the local employees is a must but does not account for treating the environment fairly...) and on and on.

So beware, if you want ""green luxury", you'd better be twice more cautious :)

Yours

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i agree luxury is no longer about golden chandeliers, marble baths and conspicuous consumption...today the new luxury is about time, space, wellbeing, adventure, fulfillment and environmental and social responsibility...rather than 'green' + 'luxury' i prefer 'healthy living' + 'sustainability' - these are the real key issues of today and our future generations.

The Nature and Kind Travel Collection was selected by the Orange British Academy of Film Awards 2008 as a nominee gift provider because of our ability to offer a premium quality product/ service that is environmentally and socially responsible without compromising high standards or comfort, service, style and value - a lifestyle option they want their nominees, attendees and members to embrace.

At one with Nature & Kind



Be at one with Nature and Kind
Thanks for your kind comments.
It would be a pleasure to meet with you and your team and, as I like this penalty system, I promise to pronounce the forbidden words in order to contribute to the lunch fund...
Warm regards
Florian
I hope that my company's name does not offend anyone...(Eco-Boudoir - Luxury with a Conscience) and I am not subject to hefty penalty fines..!
It has been my amibition to produce luxury, designed goods with care for the environment. i want to prove that eco can be sexy and luxurious and does not need to be natural looking and spartan.
It is a hard thing to do all in all - but the process is getting cleaner and clearer each season.
We are a consuming society and need to be consuming less and in a better way, but why should we compromise on style?
Luxury to me is the experience of pleasure in particular related to textiles and touch. Eco-Boudoir's collection is not about owning items but about the experience the woman feels when wearing the clothes and accessories.
Definitely food for thought... Thanks for this very structured input Tim.
Dear all,

First of all, thanks Florian, for bringing up the “Buzz words”

I believe this issue of the meaning / definition / understanding of words around which we are having our discussions, and building our network is very important.

It may be interesting in fact to create over time, and after our discussions on them, a sort of “wikipedia” specifically around the words of significance for the ALN.

I recall, as example, that Lala Rimando came up with an article on the question of “Who is luxurious”. Other contributors, including Tim Richman and Andrew Harding, provided with interesting perspectives on the definition of “luxury”.

The usefulness of that would be at least two folds:
1. Theoretically, although I am fascinated by, I am not an expert of the luxury or marketing world – and buzz words. But I am part of this network especially because I hope to learn from other ALN members. It would also be interesting to see how, on some of them, we will not reach an agreement on a unique definition.

2. Practically (as an example) I really like the suggestion from Jem Bendell of organizing an Authentic Luxury Forum and Expo. The first question that comes to mind is the choice of who can have a place on the panel and a space in the expo as being representative of Authentic Luxury basic values and goals “ […] so that more luxury goods and services will excel in their social and environmental performance […]? Here comes back the question of what is “luxury” and the very delicate ones of who is “authentic” … and of what is greenwashing or can be perceived as being greenwashing; in its definition and its variations.

As mentioned in my presentation page, I would be interested to hear other ALNers’ perspective on how to draw the line between those who “walk the talk” and those who don’t, and how long should be the walk (even small steps) so we can safely pass on congratulations?

Here are some definitions:

(Source : Greenwash Fact Sheet, CorpWatch (March 22nd, 2001) http://www.corpwatch.org/article.php?id=242):

“green*wash: (n) Disinformation disseminated by an organisation so as to present an environmentally responsible public image. Derivatives greenwashing (n). Origin from green on the pattern of whitewash. The Tenth Edition of the Concise Oxford English Dictionary

green*wash: (gr~en-wosh) -washers, -washing, -washed 1.) The phenomenon of socially and environmentally destructive corporations attempting to preserve and expand their markets by posing as friends of the environment and leaders in the struggle to eradicate poverty. 2) Environmental whitewash. 3) Any attempt to brainwash consumers or policy makers into believing polluting mega-corporations are the key to environmentally sound sustainable development 4) Hogwash. CorpWatch Definition »”
There are interesting other definitions on this fact sheet around variations in the colour of the “laundry”, such as: “Bluewash, or Deep Greenwash”.

I also have seen the term “social wash” when companies associate with not-for profit organisations or organisations in the social, human development sector to “wash” their bad record on social responsibility.

I hope others will come up with new definitions and variants.

Finally, I would be curious, Tim, to know what is on this “famous” “Buzz words list” at Marival & Company? : - )

Best

CG
Hi Tim,

I like your thinking too. Practically every press release I get tauts that the product is a limited edition. Isn't anything a limited edition really, after all no products are actually limitless...

I would have to pay hefty fines in the Marival lunch fund for words such as eco-friendly and green, I think that companies feel these words are often magic fairy dust they can sprinkle over a product to make it more appealing to the consumer. But the consumer is getting wise to that and learning that they have to go beyond a simple assurance and to find out where and how a product was made. Even certifications such as LEED are now being bandied about with little documentation to back them up.
I think the main problem with the pixie dust is that it confuses the customer and therefore makes everyone work so much harder to explain why their product is so much more sustainable. In my experience the real challenge is being able to communicate authenticity / ethics to the end user in a simple impactful way, without preaching at them.
Hi Florian! As you know I use 'Luxury Ethical' to define my jewellery. Firstly, I like the raising of eyebrows at this blatant juxtaposition at jewellery trade shows & by those in the know : ) and secondly because my theory is that the new 'luxury' value is the knowledge of socially & environmentally responsible provenance for materials & manufacture. Though I do use 18ct gold, platinum & diamonds , so whatever your values are I hope it appeals. It stirs up debate in my industry and whilst modestly going about your ethical business is appealing, its not half as appealing as being invited to talk to De Beers, Cartier, Rio Tinto et al about why consumers care about what you do in your mines or gem cutting facilities. When large scale mining companies give up shafting the miners & communities, I'll give up my 'ethical' branding. Until then, its a revolution flag and I will wave it .
Only the other day I struggled for a word to give to a journalist who asked me about some of the claims being made by some mainstream jewellers to improve their ethical credentials or who hide behind the conflict issue in jewellery.
'Hogwash' sums it up perfectly. Thanks Charlie!
Hi Vivien,

A couple of years ago, I was working with university students who wanted to develop an awareness raising project on the topic of corporate social responsibility. I challenged them to take an angle that would be innovative and attractive for people like me who have been in the field for a while and have heard the recurrent discourse (although very important) but over and over. I have had them working for 2 months on their concept paper and asked them to look at “The Leaders from the Inside” : I helped them bringing in individuals responsible for the ethical funds in the banks, the “greening” of a company in the pulp industry, as well as a consultant who, as a biologist, and convinced environmental activist, has worked for decades as advisor on environmental and social norms for major mining corporations operating in developing countries.

We had, with humour, informally entitled this event “Sleeping with the Enemy (?)” with a question mark... It has been very challenging to keep them in that line, but at the end, it opened their perspective on the various ways to change things. They realized that there is a limit to what you can do only from outside. As well as that there is a limit to what you can say without having shaken hands at least once “with the devil” (in their minds) and that once you have done so it opens doors for sometimes unexpected dialogue and collaboration.

Whether it is to be fully deployed, in some circumstances, or discretely waved, in others …keep handling the revolution flag!

Cheers

Charlie
Fully deployed, but with a charm offensive seems to me to be the way forward if you ask me. I have on many occassions had lunches with 'the enemy' but there are very few people, in my experience, who operate entirely from an ego-centric perspective and so its more about looking into what we agree on than trying to poison their sushi.
As someone who has been in the jewellery industry for a number of years before I set about creating Fifi Bijoux, I do appreciate the frustrations of moving the mountains of established systems - we can agree that a lack of transparency in our industry is a major block for example. This also means however, as an 'insider' I know when I'm being bullsh-ted!
I'm happy to say though that I've met many people who are dedicated to finding the best possible solutions for all concerned in their own discipline. To me, being pragmatic is key, whilst retaining a nose for hogwash and a vision for sharing values.
There are no enemies, only those who need to be stirred. Ok, sometimes shaken. (thats enough of my martini references, it must be time I was out of the office!) xx
ps. eeek how much do I owe to the lunch fund for my crimes? Incidentally, when I do talk to the industry its to promote the opportunity we have to contribute to long term poverty alleviation, not to lecture them ; we all know the uncomfortable truths which exist without rubbing salt in.
'Accentuate the positive' is my strategy. Does that reduce my fine?? xx
Dear Vivien, you fight a good fight my friend...
As for the words to be used in this genuine approach that we try to promote, there is no right and wrong, the only problem is that some of these words have already lost their content because of fake and deceiving marketing... Then it is even braver to try and give them their true meaning back, you are brave :)
Happy Easter my dear.

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